A little luxury treat

I’m very sorry for the delay. I have had technical problems combined with the flue so I’ve had to postpone this post a little. But it’s here now ūüôā Hope you enjoy.

So this past week I should have used finishing the Meta Mittens but they were finished in a week ūüėģ I wrote in my post about the meta that I was going to use my week on a pair of mittens for a friend butbut it didn’t turn out that way. The project mittens for Grisling is gonna take a little longer. I’m doing the pattern from scratch and half way through the first mitten I decided to do it in a completely different way so they are not gonna be finished this week. BUT I had left over yarn from another knitting project that looked to be about what was needed for the fingerless Reciprocation Mitten from Knit Purl Hunter.

Reciprocation Mitten. Pattern by Knit Purl Hunter. Knit by Anne Grove

Reciprocation Mitten. Pattern by Knit Purl Hunter. Knit by Anne Grove.

The pattern is free and yay for that! It’s well written and easy to follow.¬†Download the pattern¬†here. Take a look at her¬†Knit Purl Hunter pattern shop¬†or visit Knit Purl Hunter on¬†Ravelry. She also has a bunch of free patterns¬†here.


I knitted two yarns together. Angel by Permin, col. 04, 70% Kid mohair, 30% Silk. Alpaca Silk by Hjerte Garn, col. 2250, 60% Alpaca, 30% Merino wool, 10% silk.
They were left over from another project. I would never use kid mohair. I am just not fond of the fuzziness I guess. But it is amazing and the result, with the silk and alpaca, is just like a fluffy little cotton candy cloud! It’s soft and warm too!

Reciprocation Mitten. Upper side and palm side view.

Reciprocation Mitten. Upper side and palm side view.

I changed quite a few things on this pattern or rather I removed quite a few things. I had a considerably smaller amount of materials than the pattern calls for, so to get two shorter mittens of the same length I first removed the ‘middle’ part from the cuff and up to the part where the thumb gusset is started. Also I had to shorten the hand (simply cast off earlier than chart said). Ind the end I made the thumb a little smaller too. It just had too much ‘fabric’ in it so it flopped and wouldn’t lye nicely (= sized wrong. If you sew you might have experienced this).

/confusing explanation/ This hole process involved a lot of unraveling! First I did the ‘middle’ part and then I unraveled it. Then I knitted the full hand chart of the left mitten knowing I would unravel part of this as well. After knitting the first 4 (of the 7) repeats of mock cable of the right mitten I wasn’t happy about how it looked so I unraveled it and started over again. When I knit the thumb gusset and the thumb of the right mitten I unraveled part of the left to be able to knit a little of the hand on the left and make the two the same length //confusing explanation ended

The mitten is too big for me. I can wear them but they are for a women’s M/L. They are truly heaven to wear. So soft, warm and light at the same time. It’s a little luxury treat.


Notes & thoughts:

1. The pattern is very well written. It has all the way through references to videos you can find on youtube if you need to see the technique

2.¬†Michelle Hunter writes how to distribute the stitches on the needles, which is wonderful she thought so far. You distribute the stitches to make it easier to follow the pattern. You fx. have one needle with top side of the mitten and the palm side on two needles. But I don’t find this very helpful. When you knit on three (a total of four dpns) it makes it harder to handle if you have half the stitches on one needle and the rest on two when working with something as small as a mitten. To have a more stabile and easier work ‘space’ I distributed the stitches like this: #1:18, #2:22, #3: 20. I didn’t split the 60 stitches up evenly because of the ribbing pattern of k4, p2.

3. The thumb is quite wide and I ended up redoing it. The 26 stitches that is made into 24 by to times k2tog on the first row could easily do with a increase or two more. I redid the thumb with only 21 stitches. If you want to do it the same as me you do this:

Place first 10 stitches from stitch holder onto a double point needle. This will be Needle #1. Place last 10 stitches from stitch holder onto a second double point needle. This will be Needle #2.
With a third double point needle, pick up one stitch in ‚Äúditch‚ÄĚ on left side of thumb¬†opening (area between Needle #2 and the backward loop cast on stitches), pick up 4¬†stitches above thumb opening (former backward loop cast on stitches), and one¬†stitch in ‚Äúditch‚ÄĚ on right side of thumb opening (area between the backward loop¬†cast on stitches and Needle #1). There are 6 stitches on Needle #3 for a total of 26¬†thumb stitches.
Beginning round at Needle #1, join yarn leaving a 12‚ÄĚ tail.¬†Knit 20, k2tog (left ditch stitch with 1st cast on stitch), k2, k2tog (last cast on stitch¬†with right ditch stitch). 24 thumb stitches.¬†Next round: Knit 19, k2tog three times. 21 thumb stitches. You now have 9 stitches on Needle #1 and #2, and 3 stitches on #3.

The pattern is made by Knit Purl Hunter, Michelle Hunter. You can fid her here Ravelry. The pattern can be downloaded for free here. Knit Purl Hunters pattern shop is quite nice so go check it out here (she also has a bunch of free patterns from Knit Purl Hunter here)


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